The Synergy is the ultimate shoe for steep limestone. It has the feel and sensitivity of a slipper, but with a velcro closure of a shoe.
These have become my go to shoes over the Satori for Acephale, so for overhanging limestone, where smearing and general foot pressure are the key to success, these are the shoes.e
I as well wore them on our St. Leger du Ventoux trip, and they did not disappoint. For my style, they smeared on many of the tops of the routes, where you are smearing or toeing into a small runnel pocket on a vertical to slightly less angle.
The Satori is a stellar shoe, it has a very good horseshoe toe edge system, that is not too stiff, but adds more edge control than the Synergy.
These have been my favorite shoe, since they came out, and they have always performed amazingly well.
In the RRG, they are perfect for the edgeing power needed, while still being able to smear onto the 40 plus degree overhanging routes.
For summer's cragging at Acephale, they as well have been crazy good.
My wife climbed in the Lynx for years, and now has been wearing the womens Satori, and loves them, her go to shoe. She was a huge fan of the Stigma's and the Lynx made up for those.
Boreal also has a Satori Womens, which has a narrow fit, and lower wrap around Heel-Arch, for a Female ankle.
Boreal Ninja:
The new Ninja, 2019, is a slipper version of the Satori and Synergy, it climbs a bit stiffer than the Synergy, but a bit less than the Satori.
So for t hose who do not need the extra fittings with a velcro closure system, and are on steep stone, the Ninja is perfect.
Do not expect an easy slip on slipper, they take a smidgen of effort, but once on, the fit is solid and feels snug the whole route.
The only issue with the new Ninja's, is they are no longer have the Green shoe colour of version 1 Ninja, which climbed a lot of hard routes in the 1980s, 1990s. One of the best, goes to Wolfgang Gullich, wearing them on Wall Street, 14a, mid 80's, with wool socks!
Jerry Moffat climbed numerous 14's in the Ninja's.
Ben Moon did Hubble 14d, Agincourt 14c, and many more of his 1980's and early 90's 14+ routes, in Boreal shoes.
Dani Andrada has been with Boreal since he started, so likely Boreals have climbed more euro grade 8's than any other shoe in the world.
Boreal Dharma:
The Dharma is the ultimate edgeing shoe, it is the Satori, yet with a stiff horseshoe edge that gives you the foot power to stand on small edges for as long as you can hold on, with very little foot fade.
For those who crave, or are used to a solid edgeing shoe, then this is the ticket for you.
Boreal also has a Dharma Womens, which has a narrow fit, and lower wrap around Heel-Arch, for a Female ankle.
APPROACH FOOTWEAR:
For approach shoes, I vary with the following:
They can get to Acephale, or a short RRG stroll. The carbon heel cup adds a lot of foot support. Plus I wear them most days.
Feel like a pilllow on your foots, and they are great for everyday chilling.
My preferred approach shoe, burly, good foot support and traction. When carrying a pack with rope, draws, drill, batteries, bolts ... they are the choice.
Notes:
I wear a US 8.5 street shoe and in the climbing shoes I wear a US 8.
I wear the same size in all the Boreal shoes, one half size down from street shoe.
My wife wears a US 7.5 street shoe and wears US 7 in Boreal.
All these have excellent heel hooking abilities, and toe camming as well.
They are, or will be available in MEC, and most Canadian retailers. as they now have Sasso Vertical Rep agency in Western Canada.
No comments:
Post a Comment